SALTA

VALLES CALCHAQUIES
LA PERSPECTIVA DE LOS ESPACIOS

TEXTO: CECILIA MARTÍNEZ RUPPEL
FOTOS: ARIEL MENDIETA

LEER MÁS

ste lugar es histórico porque aquí inició la Guerra Gaucha”, me dicen en Chicoana, un pueblito tranquilo y sencillo de recorrer, a 47 km de la Ciudad de Salta. Techada, por el sol de la mañana, la plaza central está vacía, pero en mi imaginario se llena de valientes dispuestos a dar la vida por la independencia argentina. Así ocurrió en 1814 cuando los gauchos se alzaron en el Noroeste para combatir a los ejércitos realistas de Europa.

Alrededor, de un lado hay casas de estilo italiano y, del otro, construcciones bajas de adobe y tejas. Ese detalle también habla de la contraposición entre las culturas de los originarios y los europeos colonialistas, lo que provocó que el Coronel Luis Burela, a la salida de una misa, convocara a los gritos a la gente a dar batalla. Cuando le preguntaron “con qué”, porque no tenían armas, respondió “¡Con las de ellos!” y eso incitó al pueblo a pelear por la patria en lo que fue la Rebelión de Chicoana.

Hoy convive la herencia de ambos bandos en el mestizaje. La iglesia, con su torre del siglo XVIII y obras sacras del Alto Perú, y la fe que los habitantes del pueblo profesan con sus fiestas paganas, como por ejemplo la Fiesta del Tabaco, principal cultivo de Chicoana, en la que se piden buenas cosechas a la Virgen y a la Pachamama.

Una fuente francesa es el centro de una especie de asterisco formado por callejuelas que cada domingo se llena de vecinos. Van a misa, pasean y detienen su paso para comprar tamales. Chicoana es la capital de ese plato típico de masa de maíz rellena y envuelta en hoja de chala llamado tamal; en la plaza, cada semana las Campeonas Tamaleras se paran desde la mañana vendiendo sus creaciones artesanales hasta vaciar sus canastas.

Gloria Aguirre, morocha, fuerte, de unos 75 años, fue campeona cinco veces, distinción que se adquiere cada año en el Festival del Tamal del pueblo. “Acá es lindo, tranquilo,la gente brinda todo. Yo también soy así, brindo todo”, dice Isabel Illesca. Ella cocina desde los 9 años, aprendió mirando a su abuela y a su mamá y ahora su hija tomó la posta. Juntas llegaron a hacer 4 mil unidades para un festival. Pruebo los tamales de las Illesca y compruebo que envuelven su convicción de estar alimentando con paciencia y con amor. Son exquisitas, y lo mismo sucede con los de Gloria y Rosa Chocovar, campeona de charqui.

Justamente Rosa me explica que el proceso de cocción del tamal implica desde ablandar el maíz con lejía y convertirlo en harina, hasta agregar grasa, ají, pimentón, hervir, preparar la carne. Sin competir, las tres posan para las fotos de los viajeros con el pecho hinchado de orgullo. Quizás tentado por el aroma a tamales llega Ariel Pineda, bailarín de folklore. Junto a su hermana Carina forman un dúo que eriza la piel de los espectadores en fiestas populares, peñas o su propia academia. “Servicio, naturaleza y tradición” son las tres banderas que los Pineda enarbolan con sus movimientos precisos y gráciles.

En sus vestimentas típicas, bordadas a mano, se representan detalles de la historia, el paisaje, los símbolos del Norte y la fuerza de lamujer gaucha. Junto a ellos bailan sus alumnos, con elegancia y dulzura, pero también con la fuerza acumulada de sus ancestros, aquellos que dieron origen a su identidad y la defendieron en la Guerra Gaucha. Si la lucha sigue latente, cada nueva generación que elige bailar folklore es otra batalla ganada.

1. El hijo de una de las hermanas Canavides, tejedoras de Seclantás 2. Almuerzo orgánico en la Bodega Colomé 3. La famosa Cuesta del Obispo, camino zigzagueante 4. Emblemática esquina de Molinos, con sus puertas originales 5. Los hermanos Pineda, profesores de folklore, rematan una pieza 6. La Iglesia de Molinos cobija arte sacro de telar y cardones.

ES UN LUGAR IDILICO
PARA TOMAR UNOS MATES

“Los convoco y aparecen”, afirma Raúl Zuleta, ex intendente de Cachi y personaje muy popular en el pueblo, que asegura tener contacto con ovnis, objetos voladores no identificados. Alto y flaquito, con camisa y un sombrero que le da aires de western, abraza al extraterrestre de lata que se mantiene erguido en el umbral de su humilde casa e invita a pasar a todo aquel que quiera escuchar sus anécdotas.

Muestra sus paredes empapeladas de artículos de diarios y revistas sobre apariciones de ovnis en su pueblo, entrevistas que le realizaron y hasta un libro de su autoría. Cuando se le pregunta por qué cree que los seres de otros planetas lo eligen a él para contactarse, atribuye la suerte a su honestidad e inocencia. Lo cierto es que esa relación cercana del tercer tipo es una hermosa excusa para conocer el pueblo con él, desde una óptica diferente.

Caminamos por la plaza 9 de Julio, pasamos por el Museo Arqueológico y su galería neogótica de 1920 y, siguiendo por la calle Ruiz de los Llanos, Zuleta nos señala el Nevado de Cachi, un desafío para los escaladores, parte de un sistema montañoso cuya cumbre más alta alcanza los 6380 metros y en donde Zuleta hizo cima en varias ocasiones. La última vez -nos cuenta- fue cuando por la edad decidió despedirse de ese tipo de aventuras y acampar allí varias noches. En esa oportunidad asegura que apareció un ovni y que encontró huellas de extraterrestres.

Zuleta nos acompaña hasta la pequeña pista de aterrizaje para vuelos privados que hay a unas cuadras de su casa. Ya es de noche y el cielo se ve más estrellado de lo que puede distinguirse en cualquier urbe. Zuleta mira hacia arriba y con su dulce tono norteño pide: “Por favor, amigos, aparezcan, estos muchachos vinieron desde lejos para verlos”. Durante unos segundos, nada, pero de repente una luz más grande que una estrella brilla enorme y se mueve de manera rara, como una piedra haciendo “sapito” en el agua, pero lentamente. “¡Ahí, ahí! ¿Lo ven?”, grita Zuleta y todos nos sumamos a sus alaridos.

Está feliz como un niño y nosotros desorientados ante la experiencia, tan sorprendidos que nos cuesta darle crédito, pero contentos tanto por la aparición como porque a Zuleta sus amigos no lo defraudaron. Lo que nos llevamos de Cachi trasciende esa disciplina que estudia a los ovnis llamada ufología: ver el cielo estrellado bajo la luna, de la mano de alguien que ama el lugar, que lo transmite con semejante convicción, es un regalo tan inesperado como contactar con seres de otro planeta.

La Ruta 40 lleva de Cachi a Molinos, otro de los pueblos de este cordón montañoso que transitamos, los Valles Calchaquíes. Allí, vamos hacia la tradicional Hacienda de Molinos, que tiene muros de adobe y un patio con un gran molle en el centro; es un espacio idílico para tomar unos mates.

1. La bodega Colomé ofrece visitas guiadas 2. La Casona del Molino, una peña de la Ciudad de Salta 3. Músicos en La Casona del Molino (con sombrero, “el inglés enamorado”) 4. La sonrisa de Alejandra, bailarina de folklore de Chicoana

– Monumento Histórico Nacional –

Iglesia San Pedro de Nolasco

A pocos metros se encuentra la parte antigua del pueblo, fundado a mediados del siglo XVI y parte de la ruta comercial más importante de Salta hacia Chile hasta principios del siglo XX. En la calle Abraham Cornejo, un Centro de Interpretación ayuda a descubrir la historia de la zona y la Guerra Gaucha; además de la flora y fauna de la región. A unos metros, una esquina con dos puertas permanece como uno de los bastiones de antaño de este pueblo apacible, donde las fachadas blancas conviven con las casitas regadas de jardines y resguardadas por montañas.

Frente a la hacienda está la iglesia San Pedro de Nolasco –Monumento Histórico Nacional-, en la que se lucen piezas de incalculable valor, como imágenes de un Vía Crucis realizadas en la artesanal técnica de telar y con marco de cardones, madera que estuvo en peligro de extinción por su explotación desmedida.

En Molinos se encuentra además el criadero de vicuñas Coquena, junto a la Asociación de Artesanos y Productores San Pedro Nolasco. Allí, el criador de vicuñas Juan Quiroga explica que estos animales se esquilan cada dos años y que por cada uno se extraen sólo 250 gramos de lana. A los viajeros que llegan, él mismo les revela el proceso de crianza, “desde el empiezo hasta ahora”, define con su habla de ritmo lento.

Sobre cómo sabe tratar a estos camélidos cuya lana es tan cara y codiciada, confiesa que su maestra es fue Naturaleza: “Aprendimos el manejo de la vicuña observando a los animales; de ahí aprendés muchas cosas”. Tras un exquisito almuerzo en el establecimiento Colomé -que se jacta de tener la bodega más antigua del país (1831), hecha de adobe-, hacemos una visita al MuseoJames Turrell, que propone una experiencia inesperada para estas latitudes. Donald Hess, el dueño holandés de la bodega, es un coleccionista de arte contemporáneo, fanático del estadounidense Turrell, y decidió hacer en este rincón del mundo una retrospectiva del trabajo del artista, cuya obra se basa en juegos de luces que cambian la perspectiva de los espacios.

Gauchos, doñas tamaleras, estancieros, ufólogos, artesanos, extranjeros millonarios. Salta es un caleidoscopio lleno de matices que a cada movimiento del viajero cambia de protagonista. En ese sentido, la Ciudad de Salta no es la excepción. Por eso, vale coronar el viaje en la capital de la provincia, donde la peña La Casona del Molino estalla de música todas las noches. Salones con pisos de baldosa, un patio arbolado y -siempre presente- el sonido del bombo y la guitarra reciben a visitantes. Esta noche toca Rodrigo Moro, que suele mostrar su repertorio acompañado de amigos y vasos de vino tinto. Ahí nomás, alrededor de una mesa, entona clásicos del folklore y los comensales baten palmas y hacen las veces de coristas.

Inevitable es reparar en un hombre mayor de estirpe gaucha, con camisa, pañuelito al cuello, bigote y sombrero. Tiene un gato bebé en el regazo y sabe todos los temas. Se llama Sammy, es un inglés oriundo de Yorkshire y se define como un “preso de amor” por Salta desde hace veinte años, cuando llegó de mochilero. Personaje siempre presente en La Casona, Sammy prefiere que no se difunda el lugar para que mantenga la magia. “Nunca sabemos qué tipo de velada vamos a tener, y qué grandotes del folklore vienen al fin de la noche”, dice. Mientras tanto, las palmas marcan el ritmo de una zamba de Los Fronterizos que habla de estas tierras: “Al evocar los cerros/ me pica un bombo en el corazón”, canta Moro, y Sammy lo acompaña, con su acento europeo.

1. Las Campeonas Tamaleras 2015 lucen sus platos 2. Atardecer calchaquí 3. El ufólogo Zuleta con su amigo extraterrestre 4. Los tamales, por manos expertas 5. Parque nacional Los Cardones 6. Vendedor de artesanías

como llegar  Cómo llegar

En avión. Por LAN, vuelo directo.

cuando ir Cuándo Ir

Jujuy es disfrutable todo el año, pero hay que tener en cuenta que
en verano durante el día las temperaturas son muy altas. Un buen
momento para ir es el 1 de agosto, cuando se celebra el día de la
Pachamama y la provincia se llena de ceremonias de ofrenda. O al
final de ese mes, cuando se desentierran las ofrendas por medio de
rituales sagrados.

donde dormir Dónde dormir

Wilson Apart Hotel. En el centro de Salta capital, con cocina equipada y estacionamiento privado, cerca del frondoso parque de San Martín y el Cerro San Bernardo.

Posada del Sol. En pleno centro, cerca de los puntos turísticos de la ciudad de Salta.

Balcón de la Plaza Hotel Boutique. Una casona colonial construida en 1896, dentro del Patrimonio Histórico y Cultural de la Provincia de Salta. Tiene sólo diez habitaciones. Desayuno buffet.

 Dónde Comer

En Purmamarca, el restaurante Marques de Tojo ofrece una carta
gourmet a buenos precios. Se destaca la trucha con verduras y quinua
y el helado con dulce de cayote y nueces (marquesdetojo.com). En
Tilcara, Los puestos es un restaurante familiar que ofrece locro y empanadas. Se recomienda la llama al puesto, con salsa a la naranja y papas andinas (lospuestostilcara.com.ar).

como moverse Cómo Moverse

En auto. En Salta, 7 días de alquiler con Hertz. Incluye: km libre, seguro e impuestos.
Asistencia al viajero. Assist Card Nacional

paseos y excursiones Qué hacer

Buscar ovnis en Cachi, comer tamales en Chicoana, tomar un
tinto en la bodega más antigua del país y bailar una zamba en una peña.

tips Tips

Incluso si vas en verano, es necesario llevar abrigo, porque la amplitud térmica es enorme. Para evitar el mal de altura, hay que hidratarse mucho y, si se quiere, mascar coca (otra opción es tomar té de coca o ponerle unas hojitas al mate).

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