Jamaica Blue Mountain Coffee. Rasta Barista

Escrito por Almundo Autor el lunes 16 de enero de 2017

JAMAICA Blue Mountain Coffee:

EN BUSCA DEL MEJOR CAFÉ DEL MUNDO

Jamaica Blue Mountain Coffee: Esta es una historia por demás extraña, pero increíblemente gratificante. Extraña desde el principio, pero sobre todo por el final, y doblemente satisfactoria no solo por haber estado ahí, sino también por habernos dado cuenta después, mucho después, de donde habíamos realmente estado.

Dicen que solo existen la causalidades y no las casualidades, y algo de esto debe ser cierto, porque el desarrollo de los acontecimientos que siguen a continuación, no hubieran salido nunca como salieron, si hubieran sido al menos, mínimamente planificados. De hecho creo que no hubieran ocurrido.

Luego de haber recorrido una gran parte de Jamaica, del lado del caribe y del lado del atlántico, con nuestro amigo guía de turismo y conductor Maurice. Le había comentado que teníamos ganas de recorrer Spanish Town.

Spanish Town – Jamaica

 

Kingston y luego ir a alguna de las más famosas plantaciones de café de las míticas Blue Mountains, en las cuales había leído, se obtiene el mejor café del mundo. A la mañana siguiente cuando nos vino a buscar, nos comentaba que nos iba a llevar a un lugar especial; Una granja de una familia rastafari en la cima de las montañas, según él, hacía el mejor café orgánico en todo Jamaica.

Fue así que comenzamos a bordear el Río Cobre, el cual nos guiaba hasta Spanish Town.

Luego de pasear un rato por ahí, seguimos camino a Kingston. En esta parte del camino, y si van con autos alquilados manejando ustedes, hay que saber que entre Spanish Town y Kingston, se encuentra el conurbano (Gran Kingston, Suburubio, Alrededores, Área metropolitana) de Kingston, un área peligrosa como cualquier conurbano de cualquier ciudad de Latinoamérica.

Dado lo cual, Maurice subió los vidrios y aceleró un poco más la van.

Al llegar a la capital de Bob, el consejo (Exagerado desde mi punto de vista) fue el mismo. Solo nos detuvimos y bajamos en los puntos de interés del centro de la ciudad, por ejemplo la plaza de la emancipación.

Andando por Kingston y sus principales puntos de interés, me pareció que era una ciudad bastante amigable, pero la vehemencia de nuestro amigo era clara, así que no iba a contradecir a alguien que anda por ahí cientos de veces por mes. Nos limitamos a bajar donde nos decía, con la expectativa del ansiado destino final.

LAS BLUE MOUNTAINS Y SU MÍTICO JAMAICA BLUE MOUNTAIN COFFEE

Trenchtown – Kingston – Jamaica

Jamaica Blue Mountain Coffee. Rasta Barista

De recorrida previa por el legendario barrio de Trenchtown comenzamos la empinada y dificultosa marcha hasta un lugar no del todo claro, cerca del pico de las blue mountains. Una dato importante, el estado del camino tanto de subida como de bajada es muy básico y de condición precaria, dado lo cual, no es una gran idea adentrarse en un tour fuera del circuito turístico habitual si ha llovido recientemente o está lloviendo. las lluvias en Jamaica son constantes y fuertes. Estar a la orilla de un camino de montaña mientras llueve, no es una buena idea.

Plaza de la emancipación – Kingston – Jamaica

plaza de la emancipacion kingston jamaica

Otro dato importante, Esta salida no está dentro de las escapadas habituales a las montañas azules, solo es posible hacerla con un guía local muy experimentado. Los tours estándar a las Blue Mountains, suelen incluir una subida tímida y descenso en bicicleta, o alguna estadía en alguna de las farms más conocidas. Este lugar es completamente fuera de circuito, como comprobarán al final y así y todo, verán lo que sucede a continuación.

El ascenso hasta la misteriosa granja, es un paseo en sí mismo digno de recorrer. Serpenteando la montaña cuesta arriba, se puede ver una variedad de verdes difícil de imaginar, pararse al costado del camino a comer mangos y otras frutas que crecen sin ton ni son, cuál regalo del universo, e intercambiar saludos y hasta una pequeña charla con algunos de los lugareños, siempre con la introducción necesaria “Irie family”, “Respect man”, “Irie Rasta”. Disfrutable todo el camino 100% Mientras Maurice, nuestro guía y conductor nos deleitaba con Freddie McGregor, Gregory Isaacs, Bunny Wailer y Burning Spear.

Paisaje de las blue mountains – Jamaica

bluemountains jamaica

Campesino Rastafari caminando por las Blue Mountains – Jamaica

bluemountains jamaica

Dimos cientos de vueltas para adelante y atrás, y justo cuando le estaba diciendo a Maurice, que con lo recorrido hasta ahora la misión estaba cumplida; un intenso aroma a café tostado se coló en la camioneta. Miramos a través del precipicio y abajo se veía una chimenea humeante. – Ahí es. Dijo Maurice. – Esa es la granja de mi amigo, hace años que no venía. Bajamos por un camino lateral y estacionamos la camioneta en la entrada, justo frente al cartel que anunciaba que estábamos en el paraje de Section.

James Dennis Coffee Shop Farm

La granja es un lugar que uno no puede imaginarse, como una granja tradicional, sobre la cima de la ladera, una construcción rústica que da la sensación de estar a medio terminar, tiene un patio central donde hay un cobertizo, donde la familia tuesta, filtra y selecciona los granos de café, que cultiva en la ladera junto con otros productos regionales. Todo este proceso puede observarse ahí mismo, mientras se degusta un café recién tostado, todo orgánico y producido casi en el momento, cortesía de la familia Dennis. Obviamente no pueden irse sin comprar, al menos uno o dos paquetes de tan mágico elixir.

EL LEGENDARIO JAMAICA BLUE MOUNTAIN COFFEE.

Yendo al grano

El paraje de Section.

Un valor adicional a la aventura de llegar a Section, son sus alrededores. El verde es tan brillante y de tantas tonalidades distintas que es casi obsceno. Respirar el aire de las Blue Mountains rodeado de sus picos súper poblados de vegetación, es un premio es sí mismo. Caminando un par de metros por los alrededores es común encontrarse con una cascada o un río de montaña, sin duda un lugar para desconectarse por una o dos noches del circuito turístico de Jamaica.

Paraje de Section en el pico de las Blue Mountains – Jamaica

section blue mountains kingston jamaica

Extra.

Y hablando de desconectarse un par de noches, si el lugar los impresionó tanto como a mí, La Familia Dennis tiene unas rústicas pero muy Jamaicanas cabañas en las que pueden hospedarse, o si no rentar también una habitación en la casa de la familia. Sin duda alguna una experiencia 100% Jamaicana que no van a a vivir en ningún otro lugar y a precio absolutamente local. (Pregunten Por Alicia o Maurice en alguno de los Decameron de Runaway Bay).

Más allá de lo esperado.

Cuando comencé la primera parte de esta nota escribiendo: “Esta es una historia por demás extraña, pero increíblemente gratificante. Extraña desde el principio, pero sobre todo por el final“. No estaba exagerando. Días después, googleando la marca del café, me encuentro con esta increíble nota en la web de National Geographic.

¿Cómo explicarlo? Soy Adorador del café y su ritual, Fan De National GeoGraphic. Mi pináculo como viajero había tocado techo, esa tarde, en el pico de las increíbles Blue Mountains.

¡Nos estamos leyendo!

Author: Almundo Autor


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